Ken Sushi Workshop

Let me be upfront about two things. Ken Sushi Workshop is expensive, and you need to book at least two to three weeks in advance. If either of those is a dealbreaker, stop reading. But if you are a sushi person and you are willing to spend for the best, keep going.

My buddy Liam is a sushi snob. I say this with love. He has eaten sushi in Tokyo, New York, and Los Angeles, and he ranks restaurants the way some people rank sports teams. When he first went to Ken Sushi Workshop, he texted me a photo of the first piece of nigiri with the caption "I am never eating sushi anywhere else in Amsterdam again." That was eight months ago and he has been back four times.

Ken Sushi Workshop is a tiny place in De Pijp. And when I say tiny, I mean maybe twelve seats at a counter facing the chef. That is the whole restaurant. There is no back room, no overflow seating, no bar area where you wait. Just you, the counter, the chef, and some of the best fish you will ever eat.

The omakase is the move. For around 65-85 euros (it varies) you get a multi-course chef's choice menu. The chef — Ken himself — prepares everything in front of you. The rice is warm, the fish is absurdly fresh, and each piece is a small work of art. Liam says the attention to detail rivals places in Ginza that charge three times as much. I have no way to verify that but I believe him because Liam does not give compliments easily.

What makes the experience special is the intimacy. You are sitting at a counter watching a master work. Ken explains each piece if you are interested — the fish, where it comes from, how it is prepared. There is no rush. It is meditative in a way that sounds pretentious but is actually true. My friend Mila, who is not a sushi person at all, went reluctantly and said it was "the most interesting meal I have ever had." She now understands what Liam has been going on about.

Reservations: book through their website or call. They fill up fast. Weekdays are slightly easier to get than weekends but not by much. Do not just show up hoping for a spot — it will not happen. If you are flexible on dates, try for a Tuesday or Wednesday.

A few more things: cash is not needed, they take cards. There is a small sake selection that pairs well with the omakase — ask Ken for a recommendation. The portions are not enormous, so if you are someone who needs to leave stuffed, this might frustrate you. But the quality more than makes up for the quantity.

The honest downside: for the price, some people expect a fancier setting. This is a small, simple space with counter seating. If you want white tablecloths and a wine list, go somewhere else. But if you want the best sushi in Amsterdam, served by someone who has dedicated his life to the craft, this is where you go.

Liam says to tell you to order the uni if it is available. He also says not to fill up on the edamame. That is between you and Liam.