Cafe de Klos

My coworker Thomas goes to Cafe de Klos every Friday. Not most Fridays. Every Friday. For three years. That should tell you everything you need to know.

This is a no-nonsense spare ribs restaurant in the Jordaan area. It is small, it is always busy, and the portions are genuinely absurd. The first time I went, I ordered a half rack thinking I was being responsible. The "half rack" was bigger than my head. Thomas just laughed.

Here is what you need to know before you go. It is cash only. This has tripped up more than one friend. There is no reservation system — you show up and wait. The line starts forming around 5:30 PM and by 6:30 PM there is usually a queue down the street. Go early or be prepared to wait 30-45 minutes.

The menu is short and that is a good thing. Spare ribs are the star. They come in half rack and full rack, with fries and salad. The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, covered in a smoky-sweet sauce that Thomas insists he could identify blindfolded. They also do a mean chicken and a decent steak, but honestly, you are here for the ribs.

The interior is cozy in that way Amsterdam restaurants excel at. Low ceilings, wooden tables packed close together, the kind of lighting that makes everyone look good. You will probably end up talking to the people at the next table because you are basically sitting in their lap. My friend Jake said it reminded him of "if a log cabin in Vermont served world-class ribs."

I bring every visitor here. My friend Sara rolled her eyes when I suggested it — "a rib joint, really?" — and then ordered seconds. My neighbor who claims to not eat much meat came here and demolished a full rack. It breaks people.

Pro tips from a regular: the garlic bread is excellent and comes out fast if you need something to munch on while waiting for your ribs. The house wine is surprisingly drinkable for a rib restaurant. And go on a Thursday if you can — Fridays and Saturdays are the busiest.

One honest warning: if you are looking for a quiet romantic dinner, this is not the spot. It is loud, packed, and the tables are close together. But if you want genuinely incredible food in an atmosphere that feels real and alive, there is nothing like it. Thomas would not spend every Friday here for three years if there were.