Beef Chief North

People will tell you The Butcher has the best burger in Amsterdam. People are wrong. The Butcher is fine. It is a good burger in a trendy setting and I understand why tourists like it. But if you want the actual best burger in this city, you need to take the free ferry to Noord and walk into Oedipus Brewery where Beef Chief has set up shop. And then you need to order a double smash burger with cheese and a glass of Mannenliefde IPA. And then you need to sit there, in that industrial brewery space, and accept that everything you thought you knew about Amsterdam burgers was incomplete.

My friend Thomas took me here on a Saturday afternoon last spring. He had been talking about these burgers for weeks and I was skeptical because Thomas gets excited about food the way golden retrievers get excited about tennis balls — frequently and sometimes without justification. But this time he was right.

The smash burgers at Beef Chief are the real deal. Thin patties, seared hard on a flat top so the edges get crispy and almost lacy, American cheese melted over the top, pickles, onions, their own sauce. It is not trying to be fancy. It is not deconstructed or reimagined or elevated. It is just a perfect burger, executed perfectly. Thomas ate his in what I estimate was four bites. He then ordered another one.

The fact that Beef Chief operates inside Oedipus Brewery is what elevates this from great to essential. Oedipus makes some of the best craft beer in Amsterdam. Their Mannenliefde IPA is legitimately world-class, and having it fresh on tap while eating a smash burger is a combination that should probably be illegal. My coworker describes this pairing as "peak Amsterdam Noord" and she is correct.

The space is incredible. Oedipus operates out of a massive industrial building in Noord. Think high ceilings, concrete floors, communal tables, brewing equipment visible everywhere. On sunny days the garage doors open up and the whole place feels like a beer garden. There is outdoor seating that fills up fast when the weather is good. Thomas and I sat outside, ate burgers, drank IPAs, and watched the boats on the IJ. It was one of those Amsterdam afternoons that you remember.

Getting there is easy and fun. Take the free Buiksloterweg ferry from behind Centraal Station. It takes three minutes. From the ferry landing, it is about a ten-minute walk through Noord, which is worth exploring on its own. You will pass by the Eye Filmmuseum, the A'DAM Tower, and various creative spaces. Or take the NDSM ferry and combine it with the whole Noord experience.

Practical notes: Beef Chief's menu is short. Burgers, fries, maybe a few sides. That is it. This is not a place for someone who wants a salad. Prices are reasonable — a double smash with fries is around 14-16 euros. Oedipus beers are around 5-6 euros. For the quality, it is a steal compared to the trendy burger places in Centrum.

The hours can be a bit irregular, especially outside peak season. Check their Instagram or website before going. Weekend afternoons are the safest bet and also the best vibe. Thomas and I have made it a monthly thing — first Saturday of the month, ferry to Noord, Beef Chief, Oedipus. I look forward to it every time.

One thing to know: there is no table service. You order at the counter, grab a number, and they bring it to you. Do not let this put you off. The food comes fast and it comes hot.

Thomas wanted me to add that the loaded fries are also excellent. I wanted to add that Thomas once dropped a fry on the floor, picked it up, and ate it. Draw your own conclusions about the man, but trust his taste in burgers.