Sluyswacht

The moment Amsterdam hits 20 degrees, this is where I want to be. Not inside, not at some rooftop bar — sitting on the tiny waterside terrace at Sluyswacht with a cold beer, watching boats go by on the Oudeschans canal. That first warm evening of the year, when the whole city exhales and everyone is suddenly outside, Sluyswacht is perfection.

My friend Nadia and I have a tradition. First real spring day, we text each other "Sluyswacht?" and whoever gets there first grabs a spot on the terrace. Last May she beat me by ten minutes and snagged the corner table right on the water. I showed up, she had already ordered two beers and a plate of bitterballen. That is friendship.

Sluyswacht is a former lock keeper's house from 1695. It leans. Noticeably. The whole building tilts like it has had one too many of its own beers. It sits right next to the Rembrandthuis museum, which makes it easy to find but also means it is in a touristy area. Here is the thing though — despite the location, this place has a genuine brown cafe vibe. The interior is dark wood, low ceilings, candles, and locals who actually drink here regularly. The tourists come for the terrace photo and leave. The locals stay.

The terrace is the star. It is small — maybe fifteen seats — and it hangs right over the water. When a boat goes by, you can almost touch it. On summer evenings, the light hits the canal in a way that makes everything look golden. Nadia says it is the most photogenic spot in Amsterdam, and she is an actual photographer so I take her word for it.

The beer selection is solid without being overwhelming. They have the Dutch basics — Heineken, Amstel, Brand — plus a few craft options and Belgian beers. Order whatever you want, but make sure you order bitterballen. This is non-negotiable. Hot, crispy, creamy ragout inside, served with mustard. Nadia and I have never once been here without ordering them.

Inside, Sluyswacht is a proper brown cafe. Crooked floors, wooden beams, the kind of atmosphere that feels like it has been exactly the same for three hundred years. In winter it is cozy and warm, a good spot for an afternoon beer when the terrace is too cold. But let me be honest: the magic is the terrace. If you come here on a rainy day in November, it is a nice bar. If you come here on a warm evening in June, it is one of the best experiences Amsterdam has to offer.

A few practical notes: the terrace fills up fast on nice days. Really fast. If the weather is good, aim for late afternoon, around four or five, to grab a spot before the after-work crowd. Weekday evenings are better than weekends. There is no reservation system for the terrace — it is first come, first served.

Food is basic pub fare. Bitterballen, cheese platter, some sandwiches. Do not come here for dinner. Come here for drinks and snacks and the feeling of being exactly where you should be on a warm Amsterdam evening.

The location next to the Rembrandthuis is actually convenient. If you are doing the museum, pop into Sluyswacht afterward. If you are not doing the museum, come anyway. The building itself is more photogenic than half the things in that museum. Do not tell Rembrandt I said that.

Nadia wanted me to add that the bathroom is up the steepest staircase in Amsterdam, and after a few beers it becomes an adventure sport. She is not wrong.