Gollem's Proeflokaal

My neighbor Jan is a beer person. Not in the "I have opinions about hops" annoying way, but in the genuinely curious, always-trying-something-new way. And Gollem's Proeflokaal is his church.

Gollem's is Amsterdam's original craft beer bar, and the Proeflokaal location on Overtoom is the one that started it all back in the 1990s, before craft beer was even a thing in the Netherlands. They have over 200 beers on the menu. Two hundred. Belgian trappists, Dutch craft beers, German wheat beers, obscure stouts from places you have never heard of — it is all here, and the staff actually know what every single one of them tastes like.

That last point is what makes Gollem's special. Walk in, sit down, and tell the bartender what you like. "Something hoppy but not too bitter." "Something dark but smooth." "Something I have never tried before." They will pour you exactly the right beer. My neighbor Jan has been testing them for years and they have never gotten it wrong. Not once. He is both impressed and slightly annoyed by this.

The Proeflokaal itself is small and cozy. Low ceilings, wooden tables, beer memorabilia on the walls, candles. It feels like a Belgian beer cafe but with better selection and more knowledgeable staff. There is no pretension here — people are in jeans and sweaters, talking about beer or not talking about beer, and the vibe is warm and relaxed.

They also have a few other locations around Amsterdam. There is one on the Raamsteeg near Spui, one on Gollem's Daniel Stalpertstraat in De Pijp. They are all good, but the original Overtoom location has the most character. My neighbor says it has "the soul" and I think that is actually the right word.

The beer menu is organized in a way that makes sense even if you are not a beer expert. By country, by style, by strength. They do flights too, which is smart for first-timers. My coworker who "only drinks wine" went here under protest and ended up discovering she loves Belgian dubbels. Gollem's has this way of turning non-beer people into beer people.

Food is limited — some bar snacks, cheese boards, bitterballen. This is a drinking bar, not a restaurant. But the snacks pair well with beer and honestly, you are here for the drinks.

Price-wise, it depends entirely on what you order. A simple Dutch pilsner is a few euros. A rare Belgian trappist can be 10-15 euros for a bottle. But you are paying for access to beers you literally cannot find anywhere else in the city. My neighbor considers it an investment in his beer education. I consider it an investment in my happiness.

One tip: go on a weekday evening if you can. Weekends get busy and you might have to wait for a seat. Weekday evenings are perfect — the staff have more time to chat, the bar is full but not packed, and you can actually hear the person next to you. My neighbor's ideal Tuesday evening is Gollem's at 7 PM, three beers, and a cheese board. He has this down to a science.

If you like beer even a little, Gollem's is non-negotiable. And if you do not like beer, go anyway and let the staff change your mind. My neighbor Jan bets they will.