Museumplein — The Big Three

I am going to say something that might sound contradictory for a "local tips" guide: go to the Rijksmuseum. Go to the Van Gogh Museum. They are famous for a reason, and that reason is that they are genuinely, world-class incredible. My friend's dad, a retired engineer from Ohio who describes himself as "not really an art person," stood in front of Rembrandt's Night Watch for twenty minutes and got emotional. He still brings it up.

All three museums sit on Museumplein, this big open square in Oud-Zuid. The Rijksmuseum is at one end, the Van Gogh Museum and Stedelijk Museum are at the other. You can physically see all three from any point on the square. The question is not whether to go — it is how to do it without losing your mind in crowds and queues.

The Rijksmuseum is the one with the Dutch masters. Rembrandt, Vermeer, Frans Hals. The building itself is stunning — a cathedral to Dutch art and history. The Night Watch room is the main event, and yes, it is as impressive in person as people say. But do not just beeline there. The Vermeer rooms (Girl with a Pearl Earring lives at the Mauritshuis in The Hague, but the Milkmaid is here) are beautiful. The Asian art section on the first floor is underrated. And the library — the Cuypers Library — is one of the most beautiful rooms in Amsterdam. My coworker takes every visitor there and watches their jaw drop.

The Van Gogh Museum holds the largest collection of Van Gogh's work in the world. This is the one that gets people emotional. Walking through his career chronologically, watching the colors shift and the energy build, is a powerful experience even if you know nothing about art. My friend's mom, who said she "mostly came for the gift shop," walked out saying she "finally understood what all the fuss was about." The Sunflowers, Bedroom in Arles, Almond Blossoms — seeing them in person is different from any reproduction.

The Stedelijk Museum is modern and contemporary art. This is the one that divides people. My roommate loves it and goes regularly. My coworker Thomas says modern art "makes him angry." If you are open-minded and curious, the Stedelijk has incredible pieces — Mondrian, Warhol, Malevich, and a lot of contemporary work that makes you think. If modern art is not your thing, skip it and spend more time at the other two.

Here is the crucial practical advice: BUY TICKETS ONLINE IN ADVANCE. For the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum, this is not optional. If you show up without tickets, you will either not get in (Van Gogh regularly sells out) or wait in a line that wraps around the building. My neighbor's visiting parents ignored this advice and spent 90 minutes in the Rijksmuseum queue in the rain. They still bring it up at Christmas.

Timing: go on a weekday. Go in the morning, ideally when the doors open. The Rijksmuseum opens at 9 AM and the first hour is the quietest. By 11 AM the tour groups arrive and it gets noticeably busier. Alternatively, the Van Gogh Museum is often quieter in the late afternoon, after the big groups have left.

Do not try to do all three in one day. You will be exhausted, overwhelmed, and everything will blur together. My recommendation: pick two museums for one day, or spread them across two days. The Rijksmuseum alone deserves 2-3 hours. Van Gogh needs at least 90 minutes. The Stedelijk is about 60-90 minutes if you are being selective.

Museumplein itself is a pleasant place to hang out between museums. In summer there is a big grassy area where people picnic. In winter they set up an ice rink. There are a few cafes around the edges, though they are predictably tourist-priced. My friend brings a sandwich from Albert Heijn and eats on the grass between museums. Smart move.

Tickets are around 22-23 euros per museum. The Museumkaart (65 euros) gives you free entry to 400 museums in the Netherlands for a year — if you plan to visit more than three museums during your trip, it pays for itself. My coworker got one for his parents and they used it seven times in five days.

These museums are busy, yes. But they are busy because they are extraordinary. My friend's dad did not cry at the Night Watch because of marketing. He cried because Rembrandt painted something 400 years ago that still stops people in their tracks. Go see it.